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The Pilgrimage to Mt. Yudono: Rokujurigoe Kaido

Tour details

Season:
June 10 to November 1st* (Warning: Snow remaining until early July Possibility to make the hike until late November but Mt.Yudono will be officially closed)
Nights & Days:
2 night 3 days
Meals included:
*Arrangements for vegan, vegetarian, halal, kosher, allergies must be made 3 weeks before arrival
Accommodation:
2 nights in traditional ryokan(futon only)
Transportation:
Not covered. Feel free to ask for arrangements!
Physical level:
LEVEL3 (20.6km ↔ 1450m ↗ 500m ↘)
Interpretation:
Not included

Points

Once the most revered of the Dewa Sanzan peaks, Mt. Yudono has long been a site of rebirth, mystery, and deep esoteric practice (Shingon Buddhism). For over a thousand years, pilgrims from all over northern Japan walked the Rokujurigoe Kaido, a now 34-km dirt route leading to this hidden sanctuary that was said to have been opened by Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism himself. The name Rokujurigoe (The “Crossing of 60 Ri”) comes from the fact that the distance between Hondoji (in Nishikawa Town) and Oami (in Tsuruoka City) was once measured as 60 ri — using the old Japanese unit where 1 ri equals 6 cho, or roughly 2.4 km (60 ri = 144km). Highlighted by Churenji and Dainichibo, Mt. Yudono’s two principal temples, the trail is both a physical and spiritual ascent. Silenced during the 19th century when Buddhism was suppressed, and the mountain forcibly turned into a Shinto site, Mt. Yudono and its pilgrimage path were nearly forgotten. Today, walking the Rokujurigoe Kaido is to return to the mountain that “moved the haiku poet Matsuo Basho to tears.” Step into the stillness of ancient beech forests, pass broken statues once venerated by thousands, and rediscover the soul of Mt. Yudono, in this tour called “Seishin” 精神 (“spirit”).

Day01

Day 1
Before 10 am : Honmyoji

Begin your journey on Course No. 2 of the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage Route by arriving at the Shitamura-guchi bus stop. From there, walk 2 km to Honmyoji Temple, where a monk will greet you with a blessing prayer before guiding you to see the sokushinbutsu mummy of Honmyokai Shonin, a monk who devoted his life to ascetic practice on Mt. Yudono. After the visit, the monk or his family will give you a handmade bento to enjoy along the trail. Reach the Juotoge Observation Deck and take in the stunning mountain views while savoring your sustainable bento lunch, lovingly prepared by the grandmothers of Asahi Gu using local wild vegetables. At the Itaya Spring, brush the moss away from the little Jizo statue near the pool and refill your bottle with fresh mountain water. Then continue down the trail to Churenji Temple, where a visit is scheduled for 1:00 PM. Explore its surprising pop-art ceiling—can you spot the Beatles, Prince, or other pop icons?— and meet another sokushinbutsu, Tetsumonkai Shonin, known for his legendary commitment to enlightenment. Walk through the scenic rice fields of Oami village, ranked among Yamagata Prefecture’s 100 most beautiful rice terraces, and reach Dainichibo Temple, once the grandest temple of Mt. Yudono before much of it was destroyed during the Meiji-era anti-Buddhist persecutions. There, visit the mummy of Shinnyokai Shonin, the temple’s spiritual heart. End your day with a 2-hour walk to Tamugimata village, where you’ll spend the night at Nanakamado, a traditional countryside inn.

Day02

Day 2
On the route to Mt. Yudono!

Before 9:00 AM, pick up your bento at the inn’s reception and check out. Start your day walking through Tamugimata village, famous for its two thatched-roof houses, including the Shibuya House, a designated National Important Cultural Property. Follow the path to the Nanatsu Falls, one of Japan’s 100 most beautiful waterfalls, once used for spiritual waterfall training by mountain ascetics. After taking in the sights, backtrack slightly to enter the Rokujurigoe Kaido Pilgrimage Route through the Arikoshi-zaka entrance. The name “Arikoshi-zaka” means “the slope that makes you bend like an ant” — a poetic warning of the challenge ahead. Continue on to the vestiges of the Dokko Chaya teahouse, where you’ll enjoy your locally crafted bento lunch in a place once buzzing with pilgrims. In the Edo period, the trail was lined with teahouses offering mochi and tea. Today, only a few logs remain for you to sit, rest, and breathe in the sacred silence. Then, prepare for a 2-hour hike to Mt. Yudono, starting with the infamous Zangezaka —“the Slope of Repentance”—named for its punishing incline that will leave you atoning for every sin along the way. Finally, pass through the torii gate of Yudonosan Senninzawa, and check in at the Yudonosan Sanrojo pilgrim lodge. Soak your weary body in the sacred onsen (goshin’yu), believed to be the hot spring of Mt. Yudono’s goddess herself—a divine reward after a day of devotion and effort.

Day03

Day 3
What will you decide?

Visit Yudonosan Shrine, the final stop of your pilgrimage. Whether you choose to continue your journey toward Mt. Gassan, to Shizu Onsen, or return to the city, the path is yours to decide. If you need assistance planning your next steps, we’re here to help.